{"id":433030,"date":"2018-04-27T12:56:00","date_gmt":"2018-04-27T09:56:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/ch10.co.il\/?p=433030"},"modified":"2025-08-05T15:28:28","modified_gmt":"2025-08-05T12:28:28","slug":"%d7%9e%d7%90%d7%92%d7%93%d7%95%d7%aa-%d7%95%d7%90%d7%a8%d7%9e%d7%95%d7%a0%d7%95%d7%aa-%d7%a2%d7%93-%d7%9c%d7%9e%d7%a8%d7%99%d7%91%d7%94-%d7%91%d7%aa%d7%95%d7%a8-%d7%a9%d7%9c-%d7%94%d7%a0%d7%9b%d7%99","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ch10.co.il\/en\/news\/433030\/","title":{"rendered":"From fairy tales and palaces, to a fight in the disabled queue \u2022 Eliezer Heun returned from France"},"content":{"rendered":"

Like every Israeli who comes to Paris, we too have equipped ourselves with the two main voices of the tourist who encounters the city of lights for the first time: deep throaty, and astonished growls. And in more detail, voices that scold fellow travelers who don't get up early and start running around in a long line of sites listed on the briefcase they brought, and deep throaty voices that are thrilled at the sight of the luxury that the city offers, even if deep in our minds, Anderson's legend of the naked king and his new clothes looms.<\/p>\r\n

At dawn, preferably before 7 a.m., the householders wake up and take a good look at the daily schedule, since 'you can sleep at home too,' and 'we didn't come all the way to Paris and spend a lot of money to get up at ten in the morning.'.<\/p>\r\n

There's also, 'Don't be Israelis who really have no idea what it's like to travel in Paris,' and best of all - to paraphrase 'Open your mouth wide if a policeman doesn't come' - there's 'Once in a lifetime we're in Paris, who knows if we'll come here again.'.<\/p>\r\n

So at ten in the morning, after eating a French baguette, muttering that nothing compares to the famous crispy French baguette in Israel, and knowing full well that you were deceiving yourself, you rolled into the metro and sat down on the seats with a crowd of Israelis.<\/p>\r\n

I don't know about this, but I'm sure there are quite a few studies that show that being deep underground in a large, moving tin box causes a certain amount of discomfort. Otherwise, it's hard to explain how all the local lunatics ended up in your trailer.<\/p>\r\n

It started with the bearded guy who sang in a hoarse, menacing voice, demanded money from the passengers, and carved something on the doors of the carriage, and ended with a young black man who shouted incessantly throughout the entire journey, reminding me of the traveling ministers from Ken Follett's stories.<\/p>\r\n

My brother, an interesting French artist with flowing hair who insists on wearing a long white coat that gives him the appearance of an ancient prophet, joined me on the trip and, when I asked, deciphered the black man's words of wisdom for me: "You must be happy, otherwise you will be in a black prison, you will be in a black prison if you are not happy," and so on.<\/p>\r\n

\"1\"<\/a><\/p>\r\n

We ended up getting thrown off the train to Paris, where the people were killed.<\/p>\r\n

The cafes scattered on the sidewalks were so impressive that I realized that a forty-year-old Jew, a bit broad, had some difficulty walking on the sidewalk between the small round tables and saying sorry to the elderly.<\/p>\r\n

According to the list we held in our hands, we were obligated, not as a matter of custom, but as a matter of Torah, to go to the Eiffel Tower and see the Louvre.<\/p>\r\n

By the way, as someone who holds a European passport, I have a hard time hearing the provincial Israelis who express themselves in terms like 'the Eiffel Tower' or 'the Louvre Museum.' I, as a local, explained that we were going to the 'Tour Eiffel' [with an axis under the thousand], and 'to Libya' [without the letter 'R', like the late Gaddafi's].<\/p>\r\n

When we reached the Eiffel Tower, I shouted at the top of my lungs, honestly, I was surprised to the core of my soul: the tower looked exactly like in the pictures - or in other words, a few metal rods arranged in a triangle.<\/p>\r\n

Why do you have to pay 16 euros to climb a rust-colored iron triangle? Only God knows.<\/p>\r\n

In Libya, thousands of people crowded in to see the Mona Lisa, which is apparently worth several billion. It only makes sense, Da Vinci painted a picture of a woman with jaundice on the canvas, whose colors have faded over the years and attempted thefts.<\/p>\r\n

Despite this, it's impossible not to admire, point to the picture and say to those around you knowingly, "Here's the Mona Lisa, do you know how much it's worth?"<\/p>\r\n

Libya is on the Seine. The Seine is a lively river. If we were to describe the most important river in France, we could compare it to our Yarkon, only without the Sportek above it. On the other hand, on its banks stand hundreds of blacks offering to buy you a model of the Eiffel Tower \u2013 ten euros. I am not an economist, but something about the phenomenon seems illogical: the hundreds of miserable vendors trying to sell the small Eiffel Towers with a profit of fifty cents or so.<\/p>\r\n

If you sell to 60 people an hour, you might be able to make a living from it, but I haven't seen a single living person purchase one of these products.<\/p>\r\n

In general, the economy in France is not always perceived as logical. In a lovely mall called 'Galleries Lafayette', they sell nice watches for 59,000 euros, shoes for 3,000 euros, and models of the Eiffel Tower by the aforementioned blacks for 3 euros. Is there anyone who actually enters the complex, looks at the display and says: 'Hey, I need a watch, can you please pack me two of the blue ones'? I don't think so, unless their name is Amnon Shashua.<\/p>\r\n

Not far from where we were staying, another river flows, on the banks of which are endless tents. These are, it turns out, homeless immigrants who live in tiny tents under the sun, rain, or cold, and try to survive the day in their miserable (!) quarters. It's hard to bear. They don't buy their belongings in Lafayette either. Apparently.<\/p>\r\n

\"2\"<\/a><\/p>\r\n

We stayed with my father who has lived in France for many years and he hosted us generously.<\/p>\r\n

The hospitality spared us the endless search for food, but we also ate at kosher restaurants, most of which are located in the 19th arrondissement, where Jews wearing kippahs were first seen in France.<\/p>\r\n

When I got there, after several days of walking around with a blue Yishai Lapidot-style visor hat, I caught myself staring at a rather old man wearing a kippah on his head as if he were looking at a naked Negro in the forests of Africa. He kindly suggested that I enter the local shtevel and pray mincha, and inside a small room I found a few other Jews and a picture of the late Rabbi Yosef, who was perhaps the last man to unite the entire traditional Jewish people.<\/p>\r\n

In a restaurant that carried the kashrut of Chabad rabbis, we only saw Jews. Why? Don't non-Jews like to eat as well? It's not worth the money, my brother explained to me. Across the street you can buy a shawarma dish for four euros.<\/p>\r\n

Meeting my people in exile taught me something important: There are Jews who know Hebrew, but they are a minority. Most of them speak only French, shake your hand firmly and smile. Almost all of them are not even on their way to the land. The State of Israel is a wonderful thing, a vision of the prophets and a home for the Jewish people, but in 2018 they are not necessarily flocking to their country.<\/p>\r\n

On Shabbat in the synagogue, the chief cantor, or in other words, Abba, recited the prayer "Our Father in Heaven, Build Israel and Redeemer," and the choir repeated it with wonderful backing voices. The only thing that was a little jarring was the fact that almost all of them - including the conductor - were Gentiles.<\/p>\r\n

"We don't have many Jewish musicians who read music like a language," said Father, without a hint of apology in his voice.<\/p>\r\n

Rabbi Sabag, the synagogue rabbi, delivered a beautiful and rhetorical sermon and captivated the audience. I also nodded my head from time to time. After all, the fact that I didn't understand a word of French shouldn't be an insult to the rabbi, who probably logically thought that if my father was French, I too would speak the language.<\/p>\r\n

Later I explained to him that he was wrong. To prove to him the shortcomings of the genetic school, I raised my voice in song.<\/p>\r\n

He quickly understood and asked me to calm down.<\/p>\r\n

\"3\"<\/a><\/p>\r\n

In the days after the Queen's Sabbath, we viewed many more old and impressive houses and marveled at the fact that France has existed for a little longer than the State of Israel, and that is why the houses built in a non-modern construction attract so many tourists who would never be willing to live in them.<\/p>\r\n

However, in horticulture they understand. So in the Jardin de Versailles and Luxembourg \u2013 sorry Israelis, Prov., the gardens of the Palace of Versailles and the Luxembourg Gardens, it seems like this is what the entrance to heaven above looks like. True, we have already been to the Baha'i Gardens, but the radius is still a little different.<\/p>\r\n

One of the last days we took a trip to Disneyland. The Children's Kingdom.<\/p>\r\n

It's hard to describe in words how beautiful, special and transports you to another world, a world of snow whites, princes, giant witches and one Grandpa Geppetto.<\/p>\r\n

With the first step on the city's streets, you enter another planet, an imaginary world where you are completely enveloped in elements calculated down to the last detail \u2013 music, sounds, smells, colors, buildings, restaurants, and shops that force you to be different, to think differently.<\/p>\r\n

Staying there gave me endless thoughts about parallel worlds. Civilizations that do not touch each other. Areas where there are wars between Jews and Arabs, between Haredim and secularists, between the mainstream and the Jerusalem faction - and complexes where young men and women walk in the clothes of princes and princesses, smiling constantly, and offering with genuine kindness to thousands of people to celebrate, go wild, get drunk on heights and speeds and watch fireworks and light shows that seem to come from a future and infinite world.<\/p>\r\n

\"4\"<\/a><\/p>\r\n

Upon landing, we stood in the shorter line, for the disabled, because of our son Michael. In front of us stood five disabled people in wheelchairs and a young couple with a cute baby.<\/p>\r\n

Poor thing, I said to myself, so small and already suffering. The disabled people in the chairs walked lazily and even overtook a little, but then the young man in front of me started to roar: 'What's going on here, this is not right, there's a hungry baby here. She hasn't eaten in 4 hours, she's nervous.'.<\/p>\r\n

I pinched myself to be sure I wasn't hallucinating. The man, not only stood in line for the disabled with a 'hungry' baby in his arms ("They told me to stand here"), he also dared, with inconceivable audacity, to scream at the disabled in the chairs who had passed him because of the irritability of his healthy and hungry daughter (for four whole hours already). But the drama didn't end there. Two Israeli security personnel arrived quickly and one of them shouted: Where is the hungry baby, where is it, bring passports.<\/p>\r\n

Welcome to Israel.<\/p>\r\n

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